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 We
so enjoyed our excursion to the Garden District the other day that Beth and I
decided for our last day in the Big Easy to take a walking tour of the area.
We prearranged to meet Viv and Arch at Commander's Palace for lunch and
hopped the St. Charles Street Car. From one of the tour guides:
"When New Orleans became a part of the United States, their was an
influx of 'Americans' -- Anglo-Saxon stock bent on acquiring a share of the
area's wealth. Riches they won, mainly from cotton, sugar and shipping, but
not social acceptance from the French Quarter Creoles. So starting in 1832
they developed a lavish neighborhood a short distance upriver. Elegant
gardens, visible from the street in contrast to the cloistered Quarter
patios, gave the section its name. "
 We
got off at First Street and wound our way to Washington Avenue via Camp,
Coliseum and Prytania (don't you love those street names?). The richness, Old
World stateliness and history of these homes makes this area a must see for
anyone visiting the Big Easy. President of the Confederacy Jefferson Davis,
died in the Payne-Strachan House on First Street. A marble stone marks his
accomplishments both famous and notorious.
 We
ended our tour at the Lafayette Cemetery just across the street from
Commander's Palace. Since we finished a bit early for our luncheon
appointment we decided to take a stroll through this prime example of the
above ground tombs of New Orleans. With virtually the entire city being at
sea level or below, the dead of New Orleans are entombed above ground. Before
this practice began, bodies and caskets would be pushed to the surface
whenever the nearby Mississippi River crested during an exceptionally rainy
season. Nearly 90 percent of the cemetery was filled during some especially
horrendous epidemics in the 1870's and 1880's. Many family members who passed
away since that time have added their names to the markers, but aren't
actually entombed in the cemetery.
We enjoyed another great New Orleans meal at Commander's Palace. I'm not
going to go into great detail except to say that it is a place that makes you
smile as soon as you arrive. Walking you through the kitchen and then a
beautiful courtyard, you arrive in a dining area filled with balloons and
wonderful  jazz
music. The waitstaff is superb, as is the food. No more about it; just go if
you visit.
After lunch, Beth headed out for more shopping, but I finally said to myself,
"That's it, I'm going to get into the pool at the hotel." One of my
better decisions. It's our final day and floating in the pool was marvelous.
Viv joined me a few minutes after I arrived and leisurely hung out at the
Jacuzzi. While there Beth came by and said she had finally contacted her
friend from MPI that lived here in New Orleans and was that ever fortuitous.
Turns out one of her clients is connected to Pete Fountain and she scored us
freebie tickets to see the great jazz legend tonight downtown at the Hilton.
At Arch's recommendation (and at his expense), we dined at Dominque's,
which is located right in the Maison DuPuy. The original head chef was the
legendary Paul Prudhomme and I was very pleased with the wonderful Kobe beef
that Arch and I both ordered. However, the place looked a little empty for a
Saturday night and I'm guessing that this has to do with its old world
ambiance as well as its location at the far end of the French Quarter.
PUN ALERT: I managed one of the better puns of my recent travels when
Archer detected a European accent by our waitress. "What nationality are
you?" he inquired. "Czechoslovakian," she replied. Arch, who
like his daughter, Beth, has a terrific facility for languages was trying to
remember how to say, "I love you," in Czechoslovakian. He turned to
us and said, "Do you think she'd mind if I ask her?" My reply (here
it comes) was, "Arch, if you ask the waitress how to say 'I love you' in
her native language, won't she think your trying to pick up the Czech?"
You may groan now.
Sunday, May 12th,
2002
1:12 am - New Orleans -
Day 4 – (con't) Pete Fountain
Well,
seeing Pete Fountain was just the topper on our trip to the Big Easy. Outside
of Benny Goodman, if there was ever a better clarinetist, I've neither seen
nor heard of him. Seeing him work with his orchestra reminds you that, even
with the excellent jazz we've heard here, what real professionals can do.
There really is no explanation for talent like this and I certainly don't
have the words to describe it. My guess is that, even though it was a
somewhat geriatric audience, there are always members like the five scruffy
guys down front who were undoubtedly musicians learning from a master.
Delightfully whimsical, this over 70 something wizard definitely gives you
your money's worth (especially if you are comped!). If you're ever down this
way, catch this guy while he's still around.
What a wonderful send off for our final day!
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